For what seems like ever since the term pop culture was coined, the coastal wars have raged on with fierce polarization. East Coast or West Coast: choose your side, or so the prevailing philosophy decrees. But at Theophilio, Edvin Thompson retains that of a cafeteria couturier: a little bit of Brooklyn here, a little bit of Hollywood there—and heaping servings of Jamaica in between.
Bouncing between coasts, the Jamaican designer ended up in Los Angeles Friday night for an encore presentation of his Spring 2025 collection, dubbed “Shaunie,” a nod to Thompson’s childhood nickname. On par with the name of endearment, bursts of child-like joy made a splash in vibrant graffiti and smiley face prints. Still, one mustn’t mistake that element of play with naivete. Here was a collection steeped in capital S-E-X.
Amping up the slinky contemporary swank Theophilio amassed a following for with its presentations in New York, Thompson channeled sensuality, some renditions subtle, per the sumptuous silks and high-rise slits, others not so much so. Hence, the bedazzled briefs. Coded into this season’s offerings, too, were ever-rising hemlines that shrank from last season’s mini to the au courant micro, paying homage to the designer’s overtly favored decade: the aughts. A sound choice. LA was perhaps the poshest of playgrounds as far as the 2000s are concerned. One could say “Shaunie” certainly made himself home in the motherland of Y2K-coded snazz. Yet, prevailing over the nostalgia for the 2000s was the amassing feeling of exultant excess, which arose in other signature codes of Thompson’s via exaggerated cuffs, “TP” logos rendered in rhinestones galore, and leopard prints.
It’s no secret Thompson has a penchant for sourcing inspiration from his peripatetic lived experience, which can often veer autobiographical. And though we all might not relate to “Shaunie” as far as semantics go, we can relate to the uplifting feel of slipping on a sultry number. “[Clothing] champions your personality in a way,” reflected the Jamaican designer. “With life [there] are always going to be challenges, and the best thing you can do is just beat your face, put on the sexiest dress you could find in the closet—the sexiest Theophilio dress you could find in the closet—and go out in the world and face your adversary.” The takeaway? Simply put, the pleasure of dressing up is perhaps the highest form of empowerment.
“Sexy is always in,” noted Thompson. True enough. As the saying goes, sex sells. And if Theophilio sends out more sets like the tantalizing one crafted from buttery leather, whose vest was pierced with yearn-summoning grommets, we’re sold.
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