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Old-School Japanese Militaria, Remixed By the New-School Queen

WTAPS and Sacai’s latest link-up is old school meets new school.  

The two brands represent opposite sides of the streetwear spectrum. Where Tetsu Nishiyama’s WTAPS favors simple designs and military-inspired garments, Sacai’s Chitose Abe opts for multi-dimensional patterns and experimental silhouettes.

When you combine these opposing aesthetics, you get a collection that’s both wearable and innovative. 

This fusion manifests in the form of utility-style jackets made sublime by tonal layering that gives the illusion of two jackets in one — a Sacai speciality. Army-flavored cotton blazers and cargo pants are spruced up with elevated tailoring and silk accents.

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Crisp white T-shirts and dual-branded hoodies add an additional layer of functionality to the collection.

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The push and pull between each brand’s established design language creates just enough stylistic friction to make the collection exciting.

WTAPS does practicality well, as seen with its hard-wearing snowwear collaboration with Vans and its beautifully normal New Balance dad shoe. WTAPS is a no-frill brand through and through. To see it in such an uncharacteristically fashion-forward light isn’t just refreshing — it also highlights another one of the best parts of contemporary streetwear: elevated collabs that bring out the best in both brands.

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