On the heels of New York Fashion Week, London staged its SS25 shows this past weekend, also commemorating its 40th anniversary. Not unlike their overseas predecessors, most designers of the British fashion capital, too, were ripe with vigor to herald a new (pant-less) era.
In another LFW review, we credited smaller brands for bringing a palpable energy to the table, and for reminding us of their hometown’s storied reputation for birthing exciting new talent. So much so, they might’ve infected their older peers with that same itch for something fresh.
Billowing Ballerinas Vs. C*nty Catsuits – Our LFW Review:
JW Anderson
Jonathan Anderson designed a collection entirely of leather, sequins, silk and cashmere. His sculptural, slightly surrealist garments were brought into balance by a more approachable color theme, resulting in ready-to-wear that was just that – if even only for the more daring among us.
Burberry
Daniel Lee has made a point of remixing Burberry’s house codes with contemporary input. This time around, this meant infusing military-inspired cargos and outerwear with the pastel tones and lively embellishments of a spring’s early blossom; of budding flowers, hatching eggs, and birds chirping.
KNWLS
By some metrics still a small brand themselves, KNWLS’ body-fitted ruches, in acid-washed shades of blue, green and gray, were of veteran skill, tailored to a tee. With a majority of looks certainly still on the sexier side of things, the various textures and proportions helped elevate the lingerie-indebted shapes to new heights of elegance and wearability.
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha‘s aesthetics are so distinct yet never cease to churn out something novel. Leaning into theatrics, but away from the goth-y, this Croc-accompanied presentation included blush pinks, deconstructed ballerina skirts, and crystal-adorned menswear – including very Babygirl hair accessories.
As for some overall conclusive notes to end this LFW review on: Was a wheel reinvented? Not sure. Was an itch scratched? Absolutely.
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