Enter Ann Demeulemeester’s Dark Paradise by Stefano Gallici

September fashion month has been the season of debuts. Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci. Peter Do for Helmut Lang. Simone Bellottii at Bally.

Now, Stefano Gallici delivers his first collection as Ann Demeulemeester’s newest creative director, following Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who departed from the role after just one season.

For Spring/Summer 2024, Gallici’s Ann Demeulemeester debut came with generous amounts of fringes and straps, sheer gowns, roomy bottoms, and sexy goth layers rendered in the brand’s traditional muted palette (joined by a surprising pop of royal blue).

Leather aprons as dresses met non-leather aprons layered over leather coats. Leather tops went over blazers. Did we mention there was leather?

Oh, the places belts went for Ann Demeulemeester SS24, where the accessory designed to hold up our pants materialized as arm cuffs and, yes, regular belts (except buckles to the side for Ann Demeulemeester). Oh, and let’s not forget those secured around models’ abdomens in a stack of five.

Gallici, who’s worked with Ann Demeulemeester for the last three years, hits the brand’s sensual dark queen aesthetic on the nose, joined by key Ann Demeulemeester touches like sophisticated cuts and unique trimmings.

And so begins the Gallici era of Ann Demeulemeester. Welcome.