AVAVAV is back, and it’s stressed AF for Spring/Summer 2024.
Maintaining its streak of wild shows (stylish tumbles included), AVAVAV SS24 saw models looking fresh off a cry sesh with makeup running down their faces. Some rushed onto the runway, barely clothed and struggling to put on the rest of their runway outfits. And others just got pushed out there, running the catwalk to get it over with. Felt.
Creative director Beate Karlsson doesn’t hide the stressfulness of it all, either. Actually, AVAVAV “is all about stress,” according to a press statement.
AVAVAV SS24 pulls straight from Karlsson’s life — the struggles of designing a new collection according to fashion’s seasonal calendar while dealing with your average brand affairs like lawyers and contracts. Whew. Even I had to take a breather just now.
“For the past few years, I’ve only had a few weeks to create a collection whereas an album or movie can take years to create and ideate,” Karlsson tells us.
“In fashion, it’s not easy to disappear for a season or two and come back. You need to follow the seasonal cycle if you want to run a business. I’m not saying it’s impossible, but the industry is built on this structure so it’s extremely hard, especially as a young brand, to break away from this, which affects the creative process a lot.”
In the future, Karlsson hopes AVAVAV will be able away from the cycle. In the meantime, AVAVAV is following fashion’s “rules” — well, the AVAVAV way, that is.
With its signature tongue-in-cheek humor, AVAVAV sheds light on the industry’s chaotic speed plus the frustrations and anxiety it brings. And thus, AVAVAV SS24 enters the chat with “rushed design errors” resulting from the pressure of making those tight deadlines.
AVAVAV’s latest presentation delivered suits made of Post-It stickies, backless pieces boasting “Add Back?!” notes, duct-tape dresses, ‘fits barely holding together with safety pins, and boxy ensembles awaiting shape approvals.
Also, you gotta love the “Made In Italy (or China, can’t remember)” pieces.
AVAVAV SS24 also issues more monstrous footwear, Hoofster boots made in collaboration with Italian tech brand OnlyEver, extra fluffy boots, and sharp pointed-toes that should come with their own warning label.
Designing? Psh. AVAVAV said “no time.” The collection’s even called “No Time to Design,” by the way.